Can a bad battery cause error codes?

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Can a bad battery cause trouble codes?
Can a bad car battery make the check engine light come on?
What are the symptoms of a bad battery?
Does a dead battery clear codes?

Andrew Markel and Donny Seyfer discuss what to look for when inspecting batteries.

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A weak battery that may appear to have a good state of charge and crank the engine, but it can cause issues with the vehicle’s networks including codes for loss of communication.

Many late-model vehicles measure the battery’s state of charge, internal resistance and even temperature so the customer can be warned the battery needs replacement. This video covers what you need to look for when inspecting the battery. This video is sponsored by MAHLE.

Andrew Markel and Donny Seyfer discuss what to look for when inspecting batteries. This video is sponsored by MAHLE.

SEE VIDEO BELOW

A weak battery that may appear to have a good state of charge and crank the engine, but it can cause issues with the vehicle’s networks including codes for loss of communication.

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What to look for when inspecting batteries. This video is sponsored by MAHLE.

A weak battery that may appear to have a good state of charge and crank the engine, can cause issues with the vehicle’s networks, including codes for loss of communication.

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Maybe I'm just hoping for the best here...but my car sat for about a week and a half before I put it on the tender..left it on overnight and it wasn't fully charged. Drove the car for a few miles, stopped for gas, and when I started it back up, I saw ASR OFF, then the display cycled ASR(orange)/Suspension and the ABS light came on. Brought it back home and stuck it back on the tender...almost 2 days to get to fully charged after turning the magic kill knob. Probably wont be able to take it out again until next week, but wondering if anyone else has had this experience.
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Also, I asked the seller if it was jumped before it was shipped, he said it was on a slow charger for 3 hours and then started. None of this turned up in the PPI and the car was only driven from the shop to the dealer afterwards.
Yuuuupp!
I had multiple ASR errors and other weird warning lights and it was caused by an old battery years ago.
This is the first thing I'll do, swap batteries.
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Awesome....hope that's it then. The battery is an Interstate, only a couple months old, but if there happens to be a battery that has proven itself to work well for these cars, I'll switch. I measured it at 12.00V after the first night, but it must have been very low since it took so long to reach full charge.
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I had this happen last winter, battery was 7 years old. Called Matt at FOA and he told me they recommend the Interstate MT7-34R AGM battery. Bought one for about $275 and it fixed all the weird things happening to the car. Make sure you turn the cut off switch in the front before you remove the battery. Also, after you put the new battery in the drive cycle will have to be completed before you can pass emissions. I had driven mine for 5 months (over 1000 miles) and the drive cycle still had not been completed. Tried it myself and could not do it, took it to FOA and they were able to get the drive cycle completed, it can be tricky to complete correctly.
Mine was Interstate too and they replaced it through warranty coverage. They verified that there was a dead cell or something molecular unit in then battery.
They replaced it and since then I started utilizing trickle charger. Never happened again.
Feb 18, 20052,793Full Name:F683

Battery "tenders" are not the same as battery "chargers." Tenders are not really made to recharge but to maintain a decent charge. A charger will provide more current to bring the battery back to where it belongs more quickly.
Charging any battery at the slowest acceptable rate (lowest current) is always the best for battery longevity. It's a matter how how quickly you MUST have it fully charged.
A battery tender can eventually charge a dead battery. Some circuits work on threshold voltage so if the voltage isn't there, false logic (digital) can result.
Plus it seems Germany's Bosch ECUs lose IQ points when it is inserted an Italian steed.
Here's a trend I have noticed about my 360... it is more likely to trigger a CEL when it has less than a half a tank of fuel. I have checked for stored codes and nothing comes up. If I go through the reset procedure and fill it up, the CEL doesn't come back. I have even tried to replicate what I was doing and nothing.
I'm on my third "half-tank" fill-up since the last CEL incident and all is clear. Weird.
Low battery in these cars can cause all sorts of issues.
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You guys keep reusing these batteries that should be replaced. Can afford a Ferrari but don't replace a $120 battery. Then you get these funky electrical warnings and presume that the cars are junk. 1) Tenders won't charge a battery 2) if a battery has drained to the paint of death.. GET A NEW ONE. The electrochemical reaction is depeted. It'll never be 100% again. Then.. you overheat your alternator diodes trying to charge a crap battery. 1-2 years later the alternator or cable needs replacing.
My car has NEVER had a CEL or ANY electrical funkiness.. because I replace my battery with a new one every 3-4 years! Hint: It also saves your alternator!
Sure Curt... let me guess, you probably replace your timing belts every 3-5 years, when they are perfectly good!! ; ) LOL...
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It's a new battery. It was never flat, I just suspect that it was low because it sat for over a week and hoping it proves to be the source of multiple error messages.
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I understand the function of both, I was just making a point to show how low the battery was, even though it measured 12v (a perfectly healthy and fully charged battery should read around 12.7), and if that was enough to trigger gremlins.
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Oh no. I make an exception for the battery.
Per usual used Ferrari ownership protocol, my belt service interval is NEVER or engine seizes. Whichever comes first. Back in the day I owned my Honda Civic for 25 years and never changed a timing belt.
RedNeck, not to put you on the spot.. I just read it soon often on this board. Something is causing a draw. Check for stereo equipment (Amps, etc.) and tracking devices, the usual culprits. When I first bought mine I went through and found not one but two devices hand twisted into the wiring loom, covered with electrical tape. Cold weather can also make things wonky.. I suspect by diminishing the battery output.
A weak battery can/will bring about "false positive" codes. Get them cleared and ensure the battery maintains its charge and the codes shouldn't return unless there is a fault.
To clarify, a trickle charger can charge a weak battery but can't maintain a battery that is past it's prime. A new battery is needed.
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I though the same thing. There is actually a big-azz amp in the "trunk", but the was disconnected at the amp prior to shipping and I haven't connected it back yet...still debating whether I want to just remove it completely. It is wired up with large gauge wiring straight to the battery.
Still worth testing. Radio equipment installers do the dumbest things. Car should have no more than 25 or so mA draw.
vrsurgeon's advice on batteries is a very good one. I also advocate plugging the car into a quality tender every time you park it. Lots intend to drive the car tomorrow and tomorrow comes in a week or two. Many modern cars have small 100+ amp alternators including all Ferraris built since the TR and those little alternators have the same thing in common, they are electronically fragile and simply cannot survive constantly being used in a car with a compromised battery. Damage to them is so common we test every single cars charging system and a high percentage put out below spec because of that. We keep an alternator repair shop busy because of those tinker toy alternators. No test but a load test on an alternator is worth doing. If it will not go past 125 amps easily it is circling the drain.
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Awesome info, thank you. I've been connecting it to a Deltran plus when its parked (I have a Ferrari tender also but didn't realize that the tender connection was an "option" that I didn't have when I bought it). It might also be worth mentioning that the battery is missing it's hold down so who knows how long it has been driven without being properly secured. I have one on order and will install it before driving the car again.
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I agree with vrsurgeon also. Just not worth it. I replace my battery every 3 years regardless
Jan 5, 201723NYCFull Name:Dr. Joe

100% can and will
A low battery in my 911 wont even charge (air cooled weak alternator) even causes backfire
You'll throw codes.
I use a battery tender trickle charger in the 911.
full charge it use a multimeter see if it holds 12.6 volts about clear codes and see if they return
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Feb 18, 20052,793Full Name:F683

Not the ones I own. If the battery voltage is too low to start with the battery tender will not even try to charge the battery. I think that's what you're saying regarding the threshold voltage.
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Haven't taken it out yet, but at the time, it was measuring exactly 12.00VDC

Can a bad battery cause trouble codes?

A weak battery that may appear to have a good state of charge and crank the engine, but it can cause issues with the vehicle's networks including codes for loss of communication.

Can a bad car battery make the check engine light come on?

A bad battery can cause problems in electrical and electronic parts, including the computer. It can even cause a "Check Engine" light.

What are the symptoms of a bad battery?

Signs you have a bad battery.

The car is difficult to start..

Once started, the car doesn't hold a charge for very long..

Dim or flickering taillights and headlights..

Dim interior and dashboard lights..

Does a dead battery clear codes?

Recommended Services. Disconnecting the battery will not clear any codes in memory of the computer for stored OBD2 codes. The only way to clear the codes is to use a scanner and use the code clear function.