How do I know if my stick and poke will stay?

Puzzles, tie-dyeing, baking banana bread—if we’ve learned anything from social media, it’s that we’re picking up all sorts of new hobbies. We didn’t expect stick-and-poke tattoos to quickly top that list, but six weeks into quarantine, here we are.

Tattooing with a machine requires expensive supplies, like cables and tubes you’d have some trouble sourcing spontaneously. But nonelectric tattoos (commonly known as hand pokes or stick-and-pokes) seem to circumvent those requirements, with a DIY vibe that has inspired many to believe it’s a quarantine-day activity as simple as cutting their bangs. While we’re fully in favor of the special aesthetic and experience that comes along with the technique, it’s important to note that professionals specializing in stick-and-pokes follow the same hygiene and sterilization procedures you’d expect from any other tattoo artist. Not to mention, they’re guaranteed to have done this more than once.

Since social media has undoubtedly changed the landscape of non-electric tattooing, we spoke to three of Instagram’s popular tattoo artists for an expert’s guide to stick-and-pokes. Below, everything you need to know before you get one—and why you might want to think twice before giving yourself the quarantine edition.

Unlike typical tattoos, stick-and-pokes don’t require any electric tools, meaning they’re theoretically affordable and easy to do when you’re bored at home. The concept is fairly simple: If you go to a salon that specializes in hand-poke tattoos, the most commonly seen method involves attaching a tattoo-grade needle to a holding contraption, which allows ink to be easily applied to your skin. The technique lends itself particularly well to dot work or geometric patterns, but styles range widely, depending on the artist.

The act of non-electric tattooing goes back long before quarantine stick-and-pokes began popping up online—actually, before machine-done tattoos even existed. Prehistorical mummies bear designs of hieroglyphics and animals, although stick-and-poke as we think of it now is more directly linked to ’70s skate punk subculture than to ancient Egypt.

“This has been going on for thousands of years,” says New York tattoo artist Jenna Bouma (you may know her as SlowerBlack), who specializes in hand-poke tattoos. “In a historical sense, non-electric tattoos have been used as a status marker, an expression of beauty, and an open act of rebellion. It was and still is important to certain cultural groups. But what truly has made this form of tattooing popular in a modern sense is Instagram.”

Why stick-and-poke tattoos are so popular

For many customers, stick-and-pokes are among their favorite designs. Bouma says that some of the appeal—for her especially—involves the underground, punk associations. “In 2008, in western Canada, this was not a common practice to come across,” she says of her hand-poke beginnings. That uniqueness continues to draw in plenty of people.

Another reason why they’re so popular is that the experience tends to feel more personal. “It’s all handcrafted and made without the aid of electricity,” she says. “I love that aspect. It isn’t pen on paper or brush on canvas—it’s a primitive act.”

What Bouma refers to is evident throughout the entire experience, from start to finish. “There’s something beautiful and special when you’re able to feel every poke of the needle,” says celebrity tattoo artist Jonathan Valena (known online as JonBoy), who operates his studio at New York’s Moxy Times Square. His own viral designs are powered by electricity, but he too has noticed the rise in interest around stick and pokes. “There’s a sense of accomplishment when you know you’ve earned every little dot in that tattoo,” he says. “They take a lot longer than using an electric machine, so the tattoo artist’s depth perception, attention to detail, and concentration is very admirable when it’s done correctly.”

On a practical level, stick-and-poke can also be a more accessible way for artists to get into tattooing and start offering their designs. “It got popular again because of how inexpensive it is and how easy the materials are to procure,” says Montreal-based Émérik Derome, who goes by dirtyl00ks and built up a following for his signature hand-poke designs. (His style has since evolved to experimenting with machine-done tattoos.) “A couple of needles and some India ink will run you $10.” You shouldn’t expect the lower cost of materials to mean paying less in a studio—remember that you’re also paying for the artist’s skill and experience—but it does mean that more people are able to learn the technique and take it from underground movement to a more mainstream offering.

Does it hurt more than a normal tattoo?

There are a few factors that set stick-and-poke tattoos apart from electric ones. “The simple answer: less pain, takes longer to craft, heals fast,” says Bouma. In her experience, people tend to rate the experience as less painful than a machine tattoo due to the fact that only one needle is slowly inking your skin at any given moment. But as with any type of tattoo, everyone has a different pain threshold. Don’t go into the experience expecting it not to hurt at all, but if you’ve gotten a machine-done tattoo before, you’ll likely be fine with this one. “The hand-poke method generally causes less trauma to your skin, which means less scabbing and less irritation,” she explains.

Bouma says the pain level will also depend on how light-handed or heavy-handed your artist is. And of course, all the usual tattoo factors apply. If your design is especially large or intricate, you’re going to feel it more. You’re also more likely to feel pain if it’s on certain body parts where the bone is close to your skin (like your ribcage or wrists).

Another thing to keep in mind: The tattooing process itself can take longer without the help of electricity. “I’ve heard stories of artists taking a whole day,” says Derome. The length of your appointment will depend on the design you choose; stick-and-pokes range from tiny, DIY-vibe designs to more intricate patterns. Obviously, the latter takes longer. “I can craft a small or palm-size piece quite fast, but larger work and back pieces take quite longer,” says Bouma. “I think it’s fair to say that a lot of the time machine tattooing is faster.”

What is the tattoo aftercare for a stick-and-poke?

“They heal super easily compared to most machine tattoos,” says Derome. “They don’t need much aftercare since they don’t really scab.” Provided you go to someone that knows what they’re doing, he says, this kind of technique is also harder to “mess up,” since there’s less of an initial learning curve on how to use the needle.

Once your tattoo artist wraps your fresh ink, keep it covered for as long as they recommend, usually a few hours. After that, wash it with unscented soap or a gentle cleanser, and keep it moisturized with tattoo balm or Aquaphor ointment. You should follow the same aftercare procedures you would with a machine-done tattoo—cleansing and moisturizing a couple of times a day and keeping it out of the sun as much as possible. Expect it to be fully healed within a couple of weeks.

How long do stick-and-poke tattoos last?

While there’s a difference in technique between stick-and-pokes and machine-done tattoos, both are ultimately permanent marks. An experienced hand-poke artist knows how to push the needle to the correct depth for the ink to take, which is why it’s so important to go to someone who knows what they’re doing. If the needle goes too deep, you risk the lines blowing out or bleeding. Not deep enough, and the design won’t stay. So go to someone who can execute the technique correctly, and your stick-and-poke should last just as long as any other tattoo.

Stick-and-poke tattoo safety

“It’s really easy to access tools nowadays, and there’s really no regulation against performing this on yourself,” says Valena of the recent quarantine trend. But just because it’s easy doesn’t mean you should dive right in. “Not knowing how to properly execute a stick-and-poke tattoo can result in permanent damage that might be impossible to correct,” he says. “I would advise you to go to a professional to experience and appreciate these permanent marks.”

The biggest concern tattoo artists share isn’t a design you might later regret so much as it is the risk of possible infection and cross-contamination. Bouma and Derome both say it would be hypocritical to tell others they can’t ever tattoo themselves at home, since they got their start by doing exactly that for years. But they also flag the health risks of doing so. “I completely understand that it can be special to tattoo yourself, or maybe hang out with friends at home and give each other tattoos, but I don’t think it’s worth the risk of potentially getting a staph infection or hepatitis,” says Bouma.

But perhaps what you should consider before any of that is how you’ll eventually feel about a tattoo done on a total whim at home. “I must say there are many talented tattooers who have years of experience and who would be happy to tattoo you,” says Bouma. Beyond supporting those artists—many of whom can’t work right now—you’re also more likely to end up with a design you love. “Whang-Od is 103 years old and is tattooing out of a hut in rural Philippines,” she says of the legendary mambabatok (traditional Kalinga tattooist), who draws visitors from around the world. “It’s not a sterile tattoo shop, but people go to her for a reason. The point is that people desire a tattoo from her because of a fond appreciation of her history. Your dorm or living room may be clean, but I don’t know if it’s as special.”

Sarah Wu is a writer in Berlin. Follow her on Instagram @say.wu.

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