Peppers are a warm-season crop and come in a variety of colors, shapes, and sizes. More good news: Most varieties resist common garden pests and diseases! See our guide to growing and harvesting peppers. Show
About Bell PeppersPeppers have a long growing season (60 to 90 days), so most home gardeners buy starter pepper plants at the garden nursery rather than grow them from seed. However, you can start pepper seeds indoors if you want to grow your own. Northern gardeners should also warm outdoor soil by covering it with black plastic as early as possible in late winter/early spring. Red and green peppers are good sources of vitamin C, some vitamin A, and small amounts of several minerals. They’re wonderful raw in salads or as a snack with dip or hummus. You can also stuff peppers with seasoned bread crumbs or meat and bake them. On this page, we focus on growing sweet peppers, but much of the advice for growing hot peppers is the same. That said, we also have a growing guide for jalapeño peppers! Planting Grow peppers in a space with full sun and well-draining moist (but not wet) soil. A balance between sandy and loamy soil will ensure that the soil drains well and warms quickly. Mix in large amounts of organic matter (such as compost) into the soil, especially if you are working with heavy clay. Avoid planting peppers in places where you’ve recently grown other members of the nightshade family—such as tomatoes, potatoes, or eggplants—as this can expose peppers to disease. When to Plant Peppers
How to Start Peppers Indoors
How to Plant Peppers Outdoors
Check out this video to learn how to plant bell peppers:Growing
Here’s another great video on growing boosting the productivity of your peppers! Recommended Varieties Look for varieties that ripen to their full color quickly; fully mature peppers are the most nutritious—and tastier, too!
Harvesting
How to Store Peppers
Wit and Wisdom Sweet bell peppers do not contain capsaicin, which is the compound that gives hot peppers such as heir pungency and heat. Do different-colored peppers come from different plants?Surprisingly enough, the green and red bell peppers that we commonly see in supermarkets are actually the same pepper; the red bell peppers have just been allowed to mature on the plant longer. And the longer a bell pepper stays on the plant, the greater its vitamin C content so red peppers have more vitamin C (and taste sweeter). Are there male and female peppers?There is a popular myth which states that pepper fruits can be either male or female—the difference between them being that male peppers have 3 bumps on the bottom and are better for cooking, while female peppers have 4 bumps, have more seeds, are sweeter, and are better for eating raw. This is not true! Pepper fruits do not have a gender and any obvious difference between fruits is simply the result of growing conditions or variety. Pests/Diseases Pollination can be reduced in temperatures below 60°F (16°C) and above 90°F (32°C). Too much nitrogen in the soil can produce healthy foliage growth but discourage fruit from setting. Flower drop is caused by high heat OR very low humidity. If the air is very dry, douse the soil with water and thoroughly mist plants. Spider mites and aphids are two common pests of peppers, especially plants grown under cover. Spider mites—identified by the fine webbing on the underside of leaves—thrive in hot, dry weather. Mist-spray these areas regularly at the first sign of an attack to make conditions as hostile as possible for the mites. Aphids also prefer the undersides of leaves but are found on other parts of the plant too. Squish isolated clusters, or for more serious infestations, take plants out into the open, away from other peppers, then carefully turn the plants upside down so you can brush Spider mites and aphids are two common pests of peppers, especially plants grown under cover. Spider mites – identified by the fine webbing on the underside of leaves – thrive in hot, dry weather. Mist-spray these areas regularly at the first sign of an attack to make conditions as hostile as possible for the mites Aphids also prefer the undersides of leaves but are found on other parts of the plant too. Squish isolated clusters, or for more serious infestations, take plants out into the open, away from other peppers, then carefully turn the plants upside down so you can brush or blast the aphids off with a hose. See more pest and disease information in the below chart: Bell Pepper Pests and DiseasesPest/DiseaseTypeSymptomsControl/PreventionAnthracnoseFungusYellow/brown/purple/black spots on leaves; sunken, dark spots on stems and fruit; spots may develop a salmon-pink, gelatinous mass; eventually, plants rotDestroy infected plants; choose resistant varieties; provide good drainage; avoid overhead watering; apply compost for nutrition; use mulch; practice crop rotation.Aphids InsectMisshapen/yellow leaves; distorted flowers/fruit; sticky “honeydew” (excrement produced by aphids); sooty, black mold that forms on honeydew; large presence of ants on plantsGrow companion plants to either attract aphids away (nasturtiums) or repel them outright (basil, rosemary, strong-scented plants); knock aphids off plants with water spray, apply insecticidal soap; put banana or orange peel around plants; wipe leaves with a 1-2% solution of liquid dish soap and water every 2-3 days for 2 weeks; add native plants to attract aphid predators.Bacterial leaf spotBacteriaVaries; water- soaked rust/black leaf spots between veins later dry/fall out, leaving holes; leaves yellow/ distort/wilt/die; stem cankersDestroy infected parts/ severely infected plants (do not compost); remove plant debris regularly; disinfect tools; prevent plant stress/injury; good air circulation; avoid overhead wateringBlossom-end rotDisorderCaused by lack of sufficient calcium uptake.Symptoms: dark, water-soaked spots on blossom end of fruit (the side opposite the stem) may enlarge and become sunken, leathery, rottedRemove affected fruit; plant at proper soil temperature; water deeply and evenly; use mulch; maintain proper soil pH (6.5) and nutrient levels; avoid excessive nitrogen; provide good drainage; avoid damaging roots.Colorado potato beetlesInsectYellow-orange eggs laid in clusters on leaf undersides; larvae and adults chew holes in foliageRemove eggs/larvae/beetles by hand; use straw mulch; weed around plants; use row covers; destroy plant matter at end of season; practice crop rotationCucumber mosaic virusVirusSymptoms vary, but may include: stunting; mottled green/yellow/white pattern or ringed spots on leaves/fruit; distorted leaf growth; warts on fruitOften spread by aphids. Destroy infected plants; choose resistant varieties and certified virus-free seed; use row covers; disinfect gardening tools after each use; keep garden weed-free; use mulch.Flea beetlesInsectNumerous tiny holes in leaves (as if they had been hit by a tiny shotgun)Use row covers to physically block flea beetles; mulch heavily; add native plants to attract beneficial insect predators.Leaf minersInsectMeandering blisters in leaves caused by tunneling larvaeRemove infested leaves; weed; use row covers; till soil early in season; rotate plantingsRoot-knot nematodesInsectRoots become “knotted” or galled; plants stunted/yellow/wiltedDestroy affected plant matter (especially roots); choose resistant varieties; expose soil to sun (solarize); add aged manure/compost; disinfect gardening tools between uses; till soil in autumn; practice crop rotationSpider mitesInsectFine webs; yellow-specked under- side of leaves, later brown-edged or bronze or yellow leaves; leaf dropRinse plants with water, mist daily; apply insecticidal soapTomato hornwormsInsectChewed leaves (initially toward top of plant); rapid defoliation; black/green excrement; gouged fruitCheck undersides of leaves for hornworms, remove by hand and dispose of hornworms. (If you encounter hornworms that have white, ricelike cocoons on their backs, relocate them instead; the cocoons belong to beneficial parasitic wasps.) Till soil in autumn and spring; companion plant with dill/basil/marigolds to attract (and trap) or repel hornworms; spray plants with Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis). Recipes Pickled Peppers Fire-Roasted Tomato and Red Pepper Soup Roasted Red Pepper, Mozzarella, and Basil–Stuffed Chicken Roasted Butternut Squash and Red Pepper Dip Cooking Notes Peppers are wonderful with almost anything: sandwiches, scrambled eggs, pizza, salads, dips. We also enjoy cooking peppers whether it’s a beef stir-fry, smoky roasted peppers, or meat and rice stuffed peppers. Plus, peppers can be pickled! See how to make picked peppers! Vegetables Peppers TomatoesStarting Seeds Indoors: How and When to Start Seeds10 Easiest Vegetables to Grow at HomeSowing Seeds in the Vegetable GardenTips for Transplanting SeedlingsCucumber Health BenefitsGet Almanac’s Daily UpdateFree Email NewsletterEmail Address BONUS: You’ll also receive our free Beginner Gardening Guide! ADVERTISEMENT CommentsAdd a Comment Nicole (not verified) 10 months 3 weeks ago I'm trying indoor seeds for the first time. I understand pepper seeds and seedlings love it hot. My house stays at 62. I use a heating mat, but it says it only heats to 10 degrees higher than the room. Should I double up on the heating mat? I have two. The Editors 10 months 1 week ago In reply to I'm trying indoor seeds for… by Nicole (not verified) Hi, Nicole, Doubling heating mats, thereby putting a lot of heat on the bottom, is not necessarily a solution. Instead, use the one heating mat and tent your seedlings to that they have a bit of greenhouse effect. Don’t seal them off entirely but, for ex., cover them loosely in a plastic bag. We hope this helps! Julie (not verified) 10 months 3 weeks ago I would appreciate further information on how to prune and keep peppers as a perennial plant. Donna Mac (not verified) 10 months 3 weeks ago My Grandpa used to water his tomatoes and his peppers with a 5 gallon bucket of water with a couple TBS of epsom salts. Only on transplant....and he had the most magnificent crops ever. I have a friend who does this w/her container gardening every year...and holy wha..the tomatoes are AMAZING. He'd also grow clover instead every couple of years..he'd move crops around and the areas that didn't get "plants"...got clover. His gardens were magnificent. Chris (not verified) 10 months 1 week ago In reply to My Grandpa used to water his… by Donna Mac (not verified) Epsom salt adds magnesium to the soil, and magnesium is essential for making chlorophyll, which is essential for photosynthesis. Magnesium is a secondary plant mineral, meaning only very small amounts are needed, hense only watering on transplant Clover is a legume, which means it's roots have nodules of bacteria that put Nitrogen into the soil. Nitrogen is a primary plant nutrient that is fairly quickly removed from soil. |