Is IPL or laser better for dark skin?

The Forever Young BBL IPL photofacial is one of our most popular treatments for facial rejuvenation at A E Skin. With the Sciton Forever Young BBL we are able to treat just about any skin type. There are specific risks of laser treatments in people with darker skin types. But when appropriate settings are used the treatment is very safe.

What are the risks of IPL for people with dark skin?

People with dark skin have a tendency to get dark easily after any type of insult to the skin such as sun exposure, acne breakouts, cuts, burns, and laser treatments. This is called post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), which means darkening of the skin after inflammation.

How can I prevent PIH?

In order to prevent PIH Dr. Alex recommends using a good skin care regimensuch as the A E Skin line of products: Brightening Cream, Exfoliating Serum, Triple Antioxidant Serum, and Hydrating Serum. These products contain a number of ingredients which prevent PIH including hydroquinone, kojic acid, tretinoin, salicylic acid, vitamin C, and vitamin E. Using these products for one to two months prior to a laser treatment significantly decreases the likelihood of PIH.

What does IPL do?

IPL uses bright light to rejuvenate the skin. The two primary targets of IPL are melanin (which gives skin the pigment) and hemoglobin (which is in the blood). This allows for treatment of dark spots, age spots, uneven tone, redness, and broken capillaries. The same melanin that is in discolorations is also in the skin, so the laser targets both of these. We do not want to target the natural pigment in the skin, only the darker spots. And since those with darker skin types have more melanin in the skin, adjustments need to be made.

How is IPL safe in darker skin types?

The Forever Young BBL IPL photofacial device by Sciton is very versatile and allows Dr. Alex to adjust a number of settings and parameters in order to treat darker skin types safely and effectively. The first setting that Dr. Alex adjusts is the wavelength (or color) of light. Lower wavelengths (blue and green) target pigment more strongly than higher wavelengths (orange and red). For people with darker skin types Dr. Alex uses higher wavelengths for safety. This is easily adjusted with a variety of filters available. The next setting that is adjusted is the fluence (or energy per unit area). Lower fluences are used for darker skin types. The pulse width is the length of time the laser is on. The shorter the pulse width the more aggressive the treatment. Longer pulse widths are used for darker skin types. The temperature of the laser tip can also be adjusted. Lower temperatures allow for safer treatments in darker skin types.

So the next time someone tells you that darker skin types cannot be treated with laser, contact us. Dr. Alex uses the Forever Young BBL IPL photofacial device by Sciton and has performed over 8,000 laser treatments. With this device Dr. Alexhas improved the skin of many satisfied patients. Contact us for a free consultation with Dr. Alex.

A few decades ago, receiving a laser hair removal treatment would have been rather risky for a person of color. These lasers weren't made with darker skin tones in mind, and therefore, were safest for individuals with fair skin and dark hair follicles. The main disconnect was that the lasers did not properly distinguish hair follicles and skin pigment, so those with dark skin could run the risk of severe burns, scarring, discoloration, and more.

However, in recent years, we've seen advancements in inclusive technology made especially for dark skin tones. And like the launch of diverse beauty brands, it's something to be excited about. To find out more, we reached out to experts Meghan Murphy and Christian Karavolas, who shared their professional insight and advice for dark-skinned patients seeking laser treatment.

Meet the Expert

• Meghan Murphy, RN, BSN, is a registered nurse at Candela, an American laser company. She has over five years of professional experience working with lasers and energy-based devices. 
• Christian Karavolas is the president of the New York State Association of Laser Hair Removal Specialists. He is also the owner of Romeo & Juliette Laser Hair Removal, which has been offering treatments for all skin tones and complexions—specializing in dark skin—for nearly 20 years. 

Keep reading to find out all there is to know about laser hair removal for dark skin.

What to Do Before Getting Laser Hair Removal

If you're trying to decide if laser hair removal is for you, there are a few items you should be crossing off your checklist before undergoing any treatment. For starters, research the laser hair practitioner and facility that you're considering using—especially their experience treating dark skin tones. Since dark skin is more sensitive than light skin, Karavolas recommends that you ask the laser hair treatment center to see "before and after" photos of patients with a dark skin type who had undergone a laser procedure. Also, don't be shy about speaking directly with the technician. Murphy recommends, "I would ask the laser practitioner how long they have worked in the field of laser hair removal, approximately how many patients they've treated with a dark skin type, and how satisfied those patients were with their results."

To ensure your safety as a patient, following pre- and post-procedure guidelines are a must. That includes reviewing any medications and skin care products that you're using with your doctor. In general, those with ingredients that create photosensitivity (think: AHAs/BHAs, retinol/retinoids, salicylic acid, etc.) should be avoided for at least one week before your treatment. If you're using Accutane, it's recommended that you do not undergo any laser treatment for at least six months after stopping medication to avoid the risk of scarring. Both Murphy and Karavolas emphasize that you should not overlook a patch test either. "It is ideal to have the practitioner perform a test spot in an inconspicuous area and wait for approximately 48 hours post-treatment. This is an added safety precaution," says Murphy. Karavolas agrees: "Always do a test patch and wait prior to treatment. If the reaction is good, then you can proceed."

The Best Laser for Dark Skin

To figure out what laser works best on dark skin, it's worth understanding how hair removal lasers work. Murphy explains, "The contrast between the color of the skin and the color of the pigment in the hair follicle is what allows the laser to easily pick out what to target." As you can imagine, it's easier to decipher dark hair from fair skin than it is dark hair on dark skin. However, thanks to advancements in laser technology, there are now safer and more effective options available for dark skin types.

Among them is the GentleMax Pro Laser. "[It's] safe for darker skin types because it offers two wavelengths: one being a 755 nm wavelength or a 1064 nm wavelength," says Murphy. The 1064 nm wavelength, better known as the Nd:YAG wavelength, is selectively absorbed by the deeper levels of the dermis—bypassing the skin's surface and only targeting deeper melanin at the level of hair follicle. And since Nd:YAG essentially bypasses the epidermis, Karavolas also cites this wavelength as a safe option for dark skin.

Post-Treatment Care and Maintenance

After you undergo laser hair removal, there are certain things you'll want to do and others that you'll want to avoid to ensure you get the best results possible. "To reduce any redness or swelling after treatment, it is recommended to apply a cool compress, aloe vera, and topical corticosteroids morning and evening for five days post-treatment," says Murphy. Karavolas agrees, suggesting any soothing cream after laser. "This can be aloe vera, vitamin E, vitamin K, or hydrocortisone 1 percent over the counter," he explains.

You should also forgo any activity that may irritate the skin during your post-treatment care. For instance, exercise is discouraged for 24 hours, any bleaching, plucking, or waxing for four to six weeks, and direct sun exposure for at least a month after your procedure and/or throughout the treatment series, explains Murphy. As for how long a laser treatment series lasts? "Typically, four to six treatments are recommended," comments Murphy. But, keep in mind that treatments vary from person to person. "Hair growth is reduced after each treatment, and the number of treatments required will be based on your hair color and type, body area, and skin tone," she adds.

Risks Every Dark-Skinned Person Should Know

As mentioned earlier, darker skin types are more prone to side effects than lighter skin types. So if you have darker skin, it's so important that you use the right laser for your skin tone. "If the wrong equipment or wavelength is used, your skin may get temporary burns or discoloration," Karavolas warns. "Lasers for darker skin complexions have been in existence since 2000. However, most facilities have not spent the money to buy the right equipment," he adds. So as not to compromise your safety and to protect your skin, it's essential that you take the proper precautions and only work with trusted and experienced professionals.

8 Tips for Skin of Color, Straight From Dermatologists

Article Sources

Byrdie takes every opportunity to use high-quality sources, including peer-reviewed studies, to support the facts within our articles. Read our editorial guidelines to learn more about how we keep our content accurate, reliable and trustworthy.

1. Chadwick S, Heath R, Shah M. Abnormal pigmentation within cutaneous scars: A complication of wound healing. Indian J Plast Surg. 2012;45(2):403-411. doi:10.4103/0970-0358.101328.

2. Roche Laboratories Inc. ACCUTANE (isotretinoin) CAPSULES [packaging insert]. Updated June 2002.

3. Alster TS, Bryan H, Williams CM. Long-pulsed Nd:YAG laser-assisted hair removal in pigmented skin: a clinical and histological evaluation. Arch Dermatol. 2001;137(7):885-889.

   Does IPL laser work on dark skin?

   IPL is not safe for dark skin members and clients. That's because IPL targets darker pigment. If you have tanned or dark skin, the wavelength can't tell what skin is healthy and what is damaged. This indiscriminate absorption of light can lead to a burn.

   Which laser is best for black skin?

   Currently, the most effective and safest laser for darker skin tones uses Nd: YAG laser technology. The wavelength of this laser goes deep into the skin, so it effectively bypasses the pigmentation in the skin.

   Is IPL or laser better for pigmentation?

   Difference between IPL and laser for pigmentation As explained above, lasers can target very specific areas in the skin, effectively breaking down the pigmentation below the surface. IPL cannot be focused in such a way, and is usually recommended for other skin treatments, such as hair removal.

   Does laser work better on dark skin?

   Myth: Laser Hair Removal Won't Work on Dark Skin For this reason, laser hair removal was not an option for darker skin tones. Advanced laser technology now allows us to effectively treat all skin tones, although the procedure is only effective for dark hair follicles—regardless of skin tone.