Should you use oil to scrunch out the crunch?

Using a gel or strong hold product to define your curls? You are more than likely to experience “crunchy” hair if so. Crunchy hair is stiff and lifeless and not exactly what we envision when it we style our hair. Here are some tips on how you can “scrunch out the crunch” or SOTC, giving you defined curls that move!

SOTC

SOTC is not just scrunching

SOTC is different from “scrunching.” Scrunching your hair from tip to root, lifting the hair while your hair is wet and product has just been applied, can “help” define your curls and give body. But scrunching throughout your drying time keeps your curls from being well defined altogether.

Never SOTC when your hair is wet or even slightly damp. Doing this will send an army of frizzies and leaves curls less defined.

MORE: Scrunch ‘n Pump for Massive Clumps!

No crunch?

If the product you used to style your curly tresses isn’t a gel or a product that gives your curls a strong hold, you may not have any crunch to scrunch. If your hair density is high you’ll need products that claim to give your curls maximum curl definition, like Kinky-Curly Curling Custard.

Smooth Application

Getting your curls to look consistent requires that you apply your product consistently. Make sure to smooth the gel or product through your hair evenly. Having crunchy sections and not-so-crunchy sections all over your head is a no-go.

MORE: How to Apply Hair Gel

Oil Attacks Frizz

Once your hair is COMPLETELY dry it’s time to scrunch! Some gels (including alcohol-free gels) can leave hair looking dry.

If you have frizzy hair after scrunching, try scrunching with an oil. Jojoba and coconut are two light oils that work perfectly for scrunching. Drop a dime sized amount of oil in the palm of your hand and rub your hands together.

MORE: 5 Best Hair Oils for Curly Hair

Your Technique

With oily hands, scrunch from the tips to the roots of your hair by grabbing sections of your hair and squeezing. You should feel and maybe hear a very slight crunch. That is a sign that you are releasing some of the hold that the gel or product had on your curls. The definition will be a little less defined, giving your hair life!

You can also pat and lift your hair with the oil to give you more or less volume. Smoothing is not recommended as this can cause unnecessary frizz.

Depending on weather conditions like the dew point and wind your hair may experience more of less frizz after scrunching. Find a happy medium for your tresses. SOTC is a great way to sport great looking, flexible and bouncy curls!

Back in the ‘80s, many curlies sported a crispy, crunchy-looking halo of rock-hard shiny curls achieved from their gel or mousse. Fear of this crunchy perm look is why many people have been scared off wearing their curls naturally since! However, this ‘cast’, as it’s been termed, is what can help to create smooth, glossy curl clumps, once you have removed it. This step in a curly girl’s repertoire is often the break-through moment – you know, that moment when you realise you’ve been doing it wrong all along!

So, how do you remove this crunchy cast? Well, that’s where the process of ‘scrunching out the crunch’ or SOTC comes in. 

How to Achieve a Cast

A solid cast is achieved through applying styling products onto wet or damp hair. Different products can create different strength casts, but strong-hold gels and mousses are usually the best way to create a cast. Allowing the hair to dry fully (either through diffusing or air drying) without touching it too much (tempting I know!) allows the product to form a hard, crystalline surface around the hair. This encourages the cuticle to lie flat which in turn creates that smooth coveted shine. However, you don’t want to walk round with rock-hard curls looking like you’ve just jumped straight out of an ‘80s Bon Jovi MTV video! This is where the ‘scrunch’ comes in.

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How to Scrunch out the Crunch

Step 1: Ensure hair is completely dry

Test this by holding a clump between two fingers and squeezing gently, feeling for any dampness.

Step 2: Scrunch

Gently cup curl clumps in sections and scrunch your curls upwards. Some people do this quite vigorously to gain volume and lift the root, but you may wish to do this gently to begin with to see how much definition you can achieve.

Step 3: Crunch

Keep cupping and scrunching until all the ‘crunch’ has gone and your curls are soft and bouncy. Don’t forget the back! Some people flip their hair from side to side or upside down to ensure full coverage.

Different Ways to SOTC

You can simply do this with the cheapest option – your bare hands! However, some curlies like the added protection and luxury of scrunching with a silk scarf. Drape the scarf across your palms and scrunch in the same way as above.

Another option is to use a hair oil. Rub a couple of drops of oil between your palms before scrunching. The oil helps to break up the cast and adds extra shine.

Some people prefer to mix up their method of removing the crunch; for example, you could try ‘smoothing out the crunch’ which is where you gently smooth the curl downwards between two fingers, thus smoothing out the cast. This helps to reduce the chances of getting frizz which can happen with over-vigorous crunching! Or you could ‘clap out the crunch’ on more stubborn casts where you clap the lengths of your hair between flat palms.

You may want to incorporate a pick at the end to add extra volume to the roots. @actuallyalicia.curls, pictured above, said on her Instagram that "once your hair is fully dry use your hands and scrunch the hair until the hard ‘cast’ is gone and your curls feel soft again. To fluff I like to give my hair a shake from the roots, or pick it with a hair pick or comb. I also like to massage my scalp to add more root volume."

What If I Don’t Achieve a Cast?

Don’t fret too much; you can still achieve beautifully smooth and glossy curls without one. Next time you wash, try applying different layers and combinations of products or try a strong-hold styler as your final layer. Once you get used to recognising whether you have a cast forming or not, you can try the #smasters technique which is where you apply another layer of gel/mousse when your hair is 80% dry. This can help a cast to form before you finish drying fully.

So, what are you waiting for? Let’s get scrunching!

This article has been updated.