Whether you accidentally bought the wrong developer strength or found a bottle of 40-volume hanging out under the sink, we’ll bet you want to get some use out of it. Show
Thankfully, you can still use that 40-volume developer if you dilute it to a lower strength – for example, 20-volume. And that’s what we’ll be covering in this article. By the end, you’ll know precisely how to dilute 40-volume developers to 20. Table of Contents
Diluting a 40-volume developer to 20 is more straightforward than you may think. It doesn’t require a complicated math equation or a ton of hair products. Here’s how it works. When diluting 40-volume developer to 20, you’re essentially cutting the 40-volume developer to half its strength. Use a 1:1 mixing ratio for the desired results. Note: You can use this same mixing ratio to dilute different volumes. For example, you can dilute 30 volume developer to 10 or an even lower volume developer. Instructions for Diluting 40-Volume Developer to 20-VolumeFollow the below instructions for easy and accurate dilution:
Mistakes People Make When Diluting DeveloperTo help you prevent problems as you dilute the developer, let’s get into some of the most common mistakes people make throughout the process. Not Using a Measuring CupYou may be tempted to eyeball the developer and water, but we advise against that. Your eyes can be deceiving, and you don’t want to end up with a more potent (or weaker) developer than you were trying to create. If you add too much water, your developer will be too weak and may be ineffective. If you add too little water, your developer strength will be higher than 20-volume. Precision is essential when diluting developer, so you’ll need a measuring cup. Not Mixing the Developer/Water Mixture ThoroughlyMixing your developer is just as crucial as getting the measurements right. If you undermix it, when you apply it to your hair, those undermixed portions will remain at the higher developer level (40). This increases your chances of damage during the coloring or bleaching process. To ensure that your developer is adequately mixed, you can use a whisk or dye stirrer. You may find that you need to mix for a minute or two. Once you’ve got a smooth, uniform mixture, you can rest assured that you’ve mixed it enough. Does the Type of Water Matter?After learning the basics of developer dilution, one of the first questions people have is, “What type of water should I use?” That’s a very valid question, given that some online hair dye outlets mention using distilled water for this purpose. The truth is that people have used both tap water and distilled water to dilute their developer. In most cases, you can use whichever one you have on hand. But the only time you would need to use distilled water is if you have extremely hard water or if the pH of your water is unusually high. So, feel free to use tap water if that’s all you have access to. Which Developer Strength is Best for You?Now, let’s get into another topic you should consider – is a 20-volume developer the right choice for you? It’s easy to get confused by the many developer strengths available. So, we’ll cover the instances when 20-volume is appropriate and when it isn’t. When to Use 20-Volume Developer20-volume developer is the most popular developer strength, and it’s often used in box dyes. It’s commonly used to lighten natural hair and deposit a new hue simultaneously. But you can also use it with bleach to lighten the hair without depositing a new color over it. When used with bleach, 20-volume developer can lift your hair up to 9 levels in just one session. But when you use it with professional hair dye, you can expect up to 3 levels of lift. 20-volume developer also covers gray hair like a dream. If this is what you’re looking for in your next dye job, 20-volume is likely the right choice for you. When Not to Use 20-Volume Developer20-volume is not going to be sufficient if you want 4 or more levels of lift at once. Going from super dark hair to a platinum blonde with a 20-volume developer is not recommended. A higher volume developer (at least a 30) will be needed to give you the lift you need. Lastly, if you’re going darker than your natural hair color, using a 20-volume developer is a mistake. For dyeing situations like this, you’ll need a 10-volume developer, which is the standard for no-lift permanent hair color. Can You Dilute Developer with Conditioner?If you’ve done prior research on this topic, you may have come across some claims that you can dilute developer with conditioner. If you do mix your developer with conditioner, the following things may happen:
Is Dilution Necessary?Though diluting 40-volume developer is not complicated by any stretch of the imagination, it does take extra time. This may prompt some to wonder whether dilution is even necessary. Here are a few reasons where it’s a non-negotiable step:
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There you have it – diluting your 40-volume developer to 20 takes nothing more than mixing developer with water using a 1:1 ratio. If you’re up for about 5 minutes of measuring and mixing, you can make your own 20-volume developer, which works just as well as the kind you’d pick up from the beauty supply store. We hope that this article has been helpful to you, having given you all the information you need to dilute developer like the pros. Good luck with your next hair color transformation! Kenneth Byrd holds a BS in Accounting and Management Information Systems and an MBA from the University of Alabama at Birmingham. He is a serial hair blogger that has been writing about hair care since 2008, when he co-founded Curl Centric and Natural Hair Box. Curl Centric is a website operated by a husband and wife team that encourages healthy hair care. When should you use 40 volume developer?40 volume developer (12% peroxide)
Serves only for lightening. Up to 8 levels of lift. Ideal for a super platinum blonde result. It is used together with a lightening cream or powder.
Can I use 40 developer without bleach?Using 40 volume developer to lighten hair without bleach isn't a good idea at all. Ask any stylist. This strong, 12% peroxide developer is the most damaging to hair and is only used in circumstances where a high level of lift is needed.
What happens if I use 40 developer instead of 30?30 Volume Developer (30V / 9% peroxide) will lift the hair up to 3 levels higher and is commonly used with lightener. 40 Volume Developer (40V / 12% peroxide) will lift the hair up to 4 levels. It is often used with lightener or high-lift blondes. Some high-lift colors even require double-40V for extra lift.
What happens if I use more developer than color?If you put too much developer in hair dye, you will end up with a runny mixture and a disappointing color result. It's possible to save the mixture by adding more color, but this is difficult. Instead, it's best to throw the mixture away and start over.
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