Troy-Bilt gas-powered tillers need regular maintenance, including checking and adding gear fluid. This fluid lubricates the transmission to ensure the machine shifts smoothly between gears. Troy-Bilt specifies several types of gear fluid that work in their tillers. Although the company sells gear fluid, sometimes called transmission gear lube, most auto parts stores should carry a suitable substitute.
Checking the Fluid
Gear fluid sometimes seeps out of the tiller's transmission, especially in hot weather. Vents release the fluid when it expands from the heat during use, which is a normal safety feature. Checking the fluid regularly helps ensure you haven't lost too much through seepage -- Troy-Bilt recommends checking the fluid every 30 hours of use. To check the fluid, pull out the dipstick, which is typically on the rear of the tine shield. If you haven't used the tiller in at least two hours, use the "Cold" line to check the fluid. After recent use, use the "Hot" line, if your dipstick has one.
Gear Fluid Types
Although Troy-Bilt tends to add SAE 85W-140 weight gear oil to the tiller at the factory, that's not your only choice for transmission lubrication. The exact types of oil will vary for different models, but in general, when adding fluid when the level is low, use the same fluid added in the factory, SAE 140, SAE 80W-90 with an API rating of GL-1, GL-4 or GL-5. When you drain and fill the tank from scratch, use an SAE 85W-140 or SAE 140 with an API rating of GL-1 or GL-4.
When It's Low
To refill low gear fluid, move the handlebars out of the way to access the gear oil fill hole if necessary, though not all models require this. Remove the oil level check plug, which is a bolt on the side of the tiller. Pour the fluid in the fill hole until it runs out of the check plug hole, replace the plug, close the fill hole by putting the dipstick back in and reinstall the handlebars if you removed them.
Changing It
Your tiller shouldn't need a complete gear fluid change unless the fluid has become contaminated in some way, such as if debris or water worked its way into the fluid. Drain the fluid by opening the oil level check plug as a vent to help the fluid drain faster, and then remove the drain plug on the bottom of the machine. Drain the fluid into a pan, clean the drain plug threads and reinstall the drain plug. Add more gear fluid until it flows out of the check plug hole, and then replace the oil level check plug.
The Troy-Bilt rototiller is filled with transmission oil before it is shipped. As a precaution, check the oil level in the transmission before using your new tiller. Add gear oil if oil does not seep out when you remove the oil level check plug on the side of the transmission.
Adding Gear Oil to the Transmission
Allow the tiller to cool completely. Remove the oil level check plug, and check the transmission oil level before using a new tiller for the first time and after each 30 hours of use. If oil does not seep out when the plug is removed, leave the plug out to add oil. Remove the bolt holding the base of the handlebars on the transmission with a 3/4-inch wrench, and unplug the wire harness on the bottom of the handlebars. Place the tip of a funnel inside the bolt hole and slowly add gear oil until oil seeps out of the oil check plug hole. Replace the oil level check plug, secure the handlebars and reconnect the wire harness.
Joined Mar 1, 2012 · 941 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Mar 13, 2012 Can someone tell me which gear oil and the brands they are putting in there Troy Bilt? I see some in the stores are 80-90 weight and some 85-140 weight. I was also told not to use a certain gear oil because it might corrode the brass gears and copper bushings. Is a GL1 the only oil to use as I did not see any at my local store today and theirss was
saying EP oil. Joined Apr 18, 2010 ·
1,220 Posts
This is what I use. 119.2 KB Views:
2,433
Joe
Joined Mar 1, 2012
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941 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 · Mar 13, 2012
That looks good.....wish I had a gallon of that from ya...I can not find this in my local stores here.:crybaby:
Joined Mar 4, 2012
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In my opinion;Save your money on the fancy labels,numbers&letters.Typical farm brand type 80-90 gear lube has served me well on all my horses and other equipment for alot of years.I think the key here is to not wait till the color & smell of the lube has gone bad before you check/change it.
Joined Oct 21, 2010
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3,994 Posts
I too read about not using the GL-5 due to the bronze bushings, I can't find it anything other than GL-5 anywhere local. I even stopped at local place that services Troybilts and asked them, they said they have not heard that and supposedly not had a problem with using GL-5.
If you have a leak, the 140 may help. I've even read some guys use a 00 oil
for leaks since it's real heavy, the same shop I stopped at told me they use it for leaky machines also.
Joined Mar 1, 2012
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941 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 · Mar 15, 2012
I too read about not using the GL-5 due to the bronze bushings, I can't find it anything other than GL-5 anywhere local. I even stopped at local place that services Troybilts and asked them, they said they have not heard that and supposedly not had a problem with using GL-5. Sounds like a Troy Bilt repair shop I never would visit if they do not even know what oil is good or not. Maybe they want your Troy Bilt bronze to melt so they can make more money putting in new ones or selling new Tillers. hahahahahahah
If you have a leak, the 140 may help. I've even read
some guys use a 00 oil for leaks since it's real heavy, the same shop I stopped at told me they use it for leaky machines also.
Joined Apr 15, 2007
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Joined Oct 21, 2010
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Sounds like a Troy Bilt repair shop I never would visit if they do not even know what oil is good or not. Maybe they want your Troy Bilt bronze to melt so they can make more money putting in new ones or selling new Tillers. hahahahahahah I mentioned the GL-1 rated stuff and the one guy said, "yea, we used to
carry quarts of tiller specific gear lube, but we just use the stuff we have on the shelf. We have some 00 lube some guys use is they have leaky seals" So, from what the thread with Troybilt Fanatic statements, doesn't matter of GL rating just as long as it's synthetic???
Don't worry, I work on my own equipment, but they had the axle seals I needed :thThumbsU
Joined Apr 19, 2009
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Joined Jan 23, 2012
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What stores carry Warren 140W GL-1 Gear oil? I am in Iowa. Thanks, Mark
Joined Apr 19, 2009
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Joined Jan 19, 2009
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853 Posts
Re: I wouldn't worry about it Can someone tell me which gear oil and the brands they are putting in there Troy Bilt? I see some in the stores are 80-90 weight and some 85-140 weight. I was also told not to use a certain gear oil because it might corrode the brass gears and copper bushings. Is a GL1 the only oil to use as
I did not see any at my local store today and theirss was saying EP oil. I don't think you need to worry about it. But if you DO, GL1 90W is easy to find. Just go to a Tractor Suppy Store and by their 90W Ford Tranmission oil. You can also buy non-degergent 40W motor oil and it will be basically the same. GL1 is simply pure mineral oil with no extreme-wear additives and not degergent additives. 40W engine oil is the same viscosity as 90W gear oil - it's just two scales
that mean the same thing. Most name brand GL5 gear oils now adays are supposed to be "yellow metal safe." Subsequently, I use GL5 in most of my farm and power equipment since it gives better wear protection then GL1. The EP additives in GL5 are what can cause problems in yellow metals like bronze and copper. Especially bronze synchronizer clutches in some auto transmissions. The EP additives can also plug up wet brake linings in certain tractors. So for a few machines - you still
need GL1 or GL4. The Troy Built tiller has no synchros or wet brakes. Just a few bronze washers here and there and you won't live long enough to experience damage from the EP additives in GL5 oil. But like I said, if you're concerned anyway -get some GL4 that has only half the EP additives or GL1 that is supposed to have none. One word of caution. There are no longer any API tests done to verify GL1 IS GL1. The rating is considered obsolete. So anybody can call their oil GL1 and you have
to take their word for it. By the way, NAPA Premium Performance Gear Oil (made by Valvoline) is claimed to be yellow metal safe. It's tri-rated GL3, GL4, and GL5.
Joined Jan 19, 2009
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853 Posts
Re: One more comment Can someone tell me which gear oil and the brands they are putting in there Troy Bilt? . I've got a 1964 Horse and a 1968 Horse and have had both for 40 years. They've been used a lot every year. I've got about 5 acres of close-row crops that I use the Horses to cultivate
with between rows. Always had GL5 oil in them and zero problems with the gear drive. Not even any leaks. Tires, belts and engines are a different story. I think the Ariens Rocket was a better tiller - too bad they stopped making them.
Joined Jan 7, 2012
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162 Posts
My gear box is leaking at the seal, I tightened it up tonight as it seem 1/8 turn loose, but I think I will also replace the existing gear 90w oil with the 140w gl1 oil. Have you found any companies carrying this? Or were you going with the 90w?
Joined Mar 1, 2012
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941 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 · Mar 22, 2012
Go to the Warren website and contact them and ask for a local supplier. //www.warrenoil.com/product_warren_hydr.html A few years back I ordered 140 oil for my Troy-Bilt through McMaster-Carr. Recently I
found the Warren 140 at a local farm/hardware supply store. I just put some of the Warren oil in my Pony and an old Model 2 Roto-ette/Rototiller. //www.mcmaster.com/#gear-oil/=gpxwos These warren oil people sure don't like to help potential customers. I sent them an email 3 days ago about there oil and they do not even send a reply email. :banghead3
Joined Mar 20, 2005
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231 Posts
Our O'Reileys auto parts carries the GL1 140. They always seem to have a couple of gallons in stock.
Joined Dec 24, 2010
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Since I use my Horse in the winter time to push snow off the driveway with the blade attachment. I felt it wise to use the multi weight hypoid gear lube. 85/140 synthetic. Not a bit of problems so far. I think I used Valvoline brand???
LATER
Joined Mar 1, 2012
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