Where to place outdoor cat house

Use two 2x4s or other materials to raise it off the ground and place straw underneath. This makes it easier for the cats to warm the inside with their body heat.

Make the door as small as possible.

Cats need an opening of only about five-and-a-half or six inches in diameter, or the width of their whiskers.

• A small door discourages larger, bolder animals, such as raccoons, from entering.
• A smaller opening keeps in more heat.
• If there is a need for an escape door, do not cut holes directly across from each other, as this creates a draft.

Locate the door several inches above the ground level.

• Rain won’t splash up through an above-the-ground door.
• Snow is less likely to trap the cats by blocking an above-the-ground door.

Creating extra protection:

An awning that covers the opening, made from roll plastic or heavy plastic garbage bags, provides more insulation, helps keep the rain and wind from entering the shelter, and makes the cats feel safer.

Preventing dampness:

Raising the rear of the shelter slightly higher than the front helps to keep rain from pooling inside and snow from piling up on the roof.

• A small hole drilled in the side or bottom of the shelter allows rainwater to drain out.
• A slanted roof might also discourage predators from sitting on the roof to stalk.

Lightweight shelters definitely need to be secured against the wind.

• Put a couple of five- to 10-pound flat barbell weights on the floor of the shelter under the bedding.
• Put heavy, flat rocks or pavers/bricks on the lid/top.
• Place two shelters with the doorways facing each other and put a large board on top of both shelters – this weighs the shelters down and provides a protected entryway.

Insulating materials inside the shelter will increase the comfort and warmth of the cats.

• Only insulating materials which the cats can burrow into should be used.
• Blankets, towels, flat newspapers, etc., retain wetness and should not be used. They absorb body heat and will actually make the cat colder.
• Straw is a good insulating material to use. Straw is better than hay because it can absorb more moisture and is less prone to mold or rot.
• Insulation materials should only be used if the shelter can be periodically checked to see if they have gotten damp or too dirty and need to be replaced.
• Additionally, don’t place water bowls inside the shelter because they may get turned over.

One of our favorite designs uses two storage bins with removable lids.

An earth-tone bin blends in best with the environment, making it aesthetically pleasing to you and your neighbors and more natural in appearance to the cats. Common sizes of bins are 30-35 gallon (22-32″ high x 16-20″ wide x 16-20″ long) and 20-22 gallon (16-26″ high x 20″ wide and 17-22″ long).  Exact sizes vary by brand, so just make sure that the smaller bin will fit completely inside the larger bin with the lid on both bins.  You’ll also need an eight-foot by two-foot sheet of one-inch thick hard Styrofoam, a yardstick, box cutter, and straw for insulation.

To assemble:

1. Cut a doorway six inches by six inches in one of the long sides of the bin towards the corner. Cut the opening so that the bottom of the doorway is several inches above the ground to prevent flooding.
2. Line the floor of the bin with a piece of Styrofoam, using the yardstick and box cutter to cut the piece. It doesn’t have to be an exact fit, but the closer the better.
3. In a similar fashion, line each of the four interior walls of the bin with a piece of the Styrofoam. Again, perfect cuts are not necessary. Leave a cap of three inches between the top of these Styrofoam “wall pieces” and the upper lip of the bin.
4. Cut out a doorway in the Styrofoam interior wall where the doorway has already been cut out in the storage bin.
5. Measure the length and width of the interior space and place a second, smaller-size bin into the open interior. This bin should fit as snugly as possible against the Styrofoam wall pieces. Cut a doorway into this bin where the doorways have been cut into the Styrofoam and outer bin.
6. Stuff the bottom of the interior bin with straw or other insulating material (no blankets or towels!) to provide both insulation and a comfortable spot to lie down.
7. Cut out a Styrofoam “roof” to rest on top of the Styrofoam wall pieces.
8. Cover the bin with its lid.

This shelter is easy to clean by taking off the lid and the roof. It is lightweight and may need to be weighed down. A flap over the door way is optional.

Providing a purpose-built shelter for cats means they will not have to go looking in neighbors’ crawl spaces or porches for a warm, dry place to rest. It can keep them safe from the elements, and it will help you control their location and deter them from seeking shelter where they are not wanted. An insulated winter cat shelter may save your cats’ lives in the cold weather.

Cats generally use shelters during winter months more than others, but they also provide shelter from rain and sun in warmer weather.

Specifications

• The minimum size for a shelter is about 12″ x 18″ x 12″ and will fit a single cat. A 24″ x 24″ x 18″ shelter will fit three or four cats and is preferable because cats will benefit from each other’s body heat. Larger shelters are not necessarily better, because if they are not filled with cats then the heat disperses quickly, leaving the inside as cold as the outside. A space lined with straw and just big enough for three to five cats to huddle is best.
• The shelter entrance should be as small as possible, about 5″ to 6″ in diameter (shape doesn’t matter). The size of the hole will minimize heat loss and prevent larger animals, such as raccoons or predators, from getting into the shelter. The smaller the hole, the better. Cats can get into surprisingly small openings; if they can get their head through a hole, they can get their whole body through.
• Cut the hole about midway between the floor and ceiling and off to one side of the longer side of the shelter. This placement will keep the straw from falling out, retain heat near the ceiling, and minimize drafts. An added awning or curtain over the entrance will help keep the elements out of the shelter. If adding a curtain, be sure to do this gradually so the cats will get used to it.
• Some caretakers like to provide two entrances/exits for safety from predators, but we recommend one entrance for its superior heat conservation. If it is small enough it will deter predators, and strategic placement of the shelter will protect cats from predators.
• Shelters should be raised off the ground to keep snow from blocking the entrance and to prevent rain from splashing up into the entrance from the ground.
• Lightweight shelters should be weighed down. Place rocks, bricks, or wood on top, or place a piece of plywood on top of two shelters facing each other to create a “breezeway” entrance between them. Weight can also be added to the bottom of the shelter by attaching a wooden mini-pallet or pieces of 2×4 lumber. This also raises the shelter off the ground.

Insulation

• It is important that the walls of the shelter are insulated to retain the cats’ body heat. One-to-two-inch-thick foam insulation is an effective material that is easy to find. Foam boards can line a plastic or wooden shelter, or a very simple shelter can be made by cutting a hole in a large, sturdy foam shipping container.
• For added insulation in extreme cold, line the shelter with shiny heat-reflecting material. For example, use foam construction insulation coated with foil, heat-reflective Mylar blankets, or Mylar bubblepack (used for shipping tropical fish — pet stores may give this to you for free).

Bedding

• It is important that you put proper bedding inside. Straw is the best bedding; it repels moisture and provides insulation, making it ideal for keeping cats warm and comfortable all winter long. Be sure that you buy straw, which is bedding, and not hay, which is feed. Blankets and towels should never be used as bedding; they do not insulate and can actually steal heat from the cats’ bodies. Blankets also retain moisture and can become moldy.

Placement

• Make sure the shelter stands firm on the ground and does not wobble. If needed, add wood shims or rocks underneath to make the shelter sit securely. The entrance of the shelter should be facing away from the prevailing winds. Placing shelters with the entrance facing a wall, fence, or other windbreak is a good idea. This strategy will also help protect the cats against possible intrusion by other neighborhood animals and give the cats an emergency evacuation route.
• If there is a risk of tampering by humans, camouflage the shelter(s) as well as possible using paint and surrounding vegetation. A shelter that stands out from its surroundings could be mistaken for trash and could bring unwanted attention to the cats.

Straw Shelter Bedding

No matter which shelter design you use, it is important that you put proper bedding inside. Straw is the best bedding — it repels moisture and provides insulation, making it ideal for keeping cats warm and comfortable all winter. Be sure that you buy straw, which is bedding, and not hay, which is feed. Blankets and towels should never be used as bedding — they do not insulate and can actually steal heat from the cats’ bodies. Blankets also retain moisture and can become moldy.

Bales of straw are plentiful during the fall in garden centers, home improvement stores, some craft stores, and some supermarkets. Straw can also be purchased online year-round. The small “decorative” bales are more expensive than the larger bales for farms, but a little straw goes a very long way when it’s fluffed up.

How much should you use? Cats will flatten the straw as they use it and some like to tunnel into the straw. Fill the shelter about one-third to one-half of the way up the inside walls. Add or change straw as needed throughout the season.

Hay vs. Straw: Note that stores sometimes refer to straw as “hay.” Straw is hollow, shiny, and yellow, and is used as bedding for livestock. Hay is used as feed and is duller and greenish. Hay contains moisture and is not desirable as bedding.

In rare cases, some cats are allergic to straw and develop rashes or upper respiratory symptoms. For those cats, synthetic bedding such as polar fleece, heat-reflective cat mats, and polyester “Purr Pads” (available online) can be used safely, and it will keep them warm and dry if used in waterproof shelters.

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