Why is a pork shoulder roast called a Boston butt?

It has always seemed funny to me that one of the most popular cuts of pork for Southern barbecue pits has an inherently Yankee name: the Boston butt.

The second half of the name—the butt part—has led to all sorts of cutesy names for competition barbecue teams and restaurants (Big Butts, Rubbin' Butts, Smokin' Butts.) It offers endless opportunities for titillating restaurant slogans, like "No One Can Touch our Butts" and "You Can Smell Our Butts for Miles."

What Part of the Pig is a "Boston Butt"?

But a Boston butt has nothing to do with a pig's backside—that's the ham. The butt, counterintuitively, comes from the front end.

You can buy a whole pork shoulder at some grocery stores, but you'll commonly find the shoulder cut into two pieces. The upper part is our Boston butt (sometimes called "blade roast"), and it comes from right behind the pig's neck and typically contains a small piece of the shoulder blade. The lower part is called the picnic ("arm roast") and includes the rest of the leg down to the hock.

Where Did the Name "Boston Butt" Originate?

So, that's the proper location for these meats. What about the name?

If you believe the Internet, it came from shipping practices. Back in the colonial days, an article in Mental Floss explains, New England butchers took "less prized cuts of pork," packed them into barrels, and shipped them off to other places. "The barrels the pork went into were called butts," the author explains. "This particular shoulder cut became known around the country as a New England specialty, and hence it became the 'Boston butt.'"

Mix Plate of sliced pork and ribs with white bread at Archibald’s BBQ. Robbie Caponetto

Skepticism of the "Boston Butt"

The New York Times and other reputable publications have repeated this story, but common sense should make us skeptical. Can you think of any other food named for its shipping container name?

There are plenty of historical problems with this explanation, too. For starters, Virginia and North Carolina, not New England, were the centers of the pork trade in the 18th century until eclipsed by Cincinnati in the 1830s and then by Chicago. I have searched high and low but cannot find a single printed use of the term "Boston butt" in the colonial era or even before the Civil War.

Other Geographically-Names Cuts

The term originated in the late 19th century, as railroads transformed the commercial meat packing industry from regional to national. Butchers in different parts of the country had slightly different ways of carving up pigs and cows. Other states and cities lent their names to various cuts as national packers standardized butchering. Thus we have New York Strip steaks and St. Louis-style ribs—another favorite of Southern barbecue cooks.

The pork shoulder originally had several other geographically-named cuts. In the meatpacking trade, the Kansas City Sun reported in 1892, "careful requirements are formulated for standard sweet pickled hams and shoulders, New York shoulders, Boston shoulders, California hams, skinned hams, pickled bellies, etc."

According to agriculture journals and meat cutter manuals from the early 20th century, New York shoulders had the shank "cut off above the knee, trimmed close and smooth, and square at the butt." A "California ham" was not ham at all. It was "well-rounded at the butt, and trimmed as near to the shape of a ham as possible." This latter cut was also known as the "picnic" (for reasons I've been unable to discover), and that term is now the standard for the lower part of the pork shoulder.

Agricultural Terminology

As the use of "butt" in these agricultural manuals suggests, the name of the Boston-style cut had nothing to do with shipping containers. Consider the butt of a rifle or a cigar butt. Either crafty Bostonians were putting all sorts of things in barrels and shipping them south, or "butt" was simply a generic term for, as Merriam-Webster phrases it, "the large or thicker end part of something"—the pork shoulder, in this case.

Boston didn't have a monopoly on butts, either. The 1912 Bulletin of the Agricultural Experiment Station of the University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign observed, "Milwaukee style butts are the same as Boston butts with the neck bone and rib left on." My research even turned up a passing mention of a "New Orleans cut" of pork shoulder in 1911, but that one never became popular, which is a shame.

So, the next time you fire up the backyard pit, feel free to buy a couple of Boston butts if you prefer. There's no need to giggle about the name, even while rubbing them down with your secret spice blend.

Why is a pork shoulder roast called a Boston butt?

A boneless Boston butt, rolled, tied and ready for roasting

A Boston butt is the slightly wedged shaped portion of the pork shoulder above the standard picnic cut[1] which includes the blade bone and the "lean butt" (which is boneless), both extensions of the tenderloin cut and can be used in place of the tenderloin.[2] Generally the pork shoulder is considered a primal cut with the picnic and butt sections being sub-primal cuts however, some sources do refer to the butt as a primary cut.[3]

The tenderloin is closer to the rear of the hog. The shoulder is at the front.

The Boston butt gets its name simply from the fact that it is the wider end of the front shoulder. Butt is old English for “wide end” like the butt of a gun.

See also[edit]

  • Cut of pork

References[edit]

  1. ^ United States. Department of the Air Force (1968). The Veterinary Technician. U.S. Government Printing Office. p. 6.
  2. ^ The Hotel/motor Hotel Monthly. Clissold Publishing Company. 1915. p. 9.
  3. ^ Tia Harrison (15 February 2013). Butchery and Sausage-Making For Dummies. John Wiley & Sons. p. 152. ISBN 978-1-118-38744-3.

Why do they call a pork shoulder a Boston butt?

The low-valued cuts were packed into “butts”, or barrels. The folks in Boston used to cut their shoulders in a certain way that became the common way to cut up a hog, and we now call it “Boston butt”. With a Boston Butt, you're looking for most of the fat to be already trimmed.

What is the difference between pork shoulder and Boston butt roast?

Both come from the shoulder of the pig, but pork butt is higher on the foreleg, while pork shoulder is farther down. As relatively tough and fatty cuts, both benefit from long, slow cooking methods such as roasting, stewing, and braising. But the cuts are different enough that we generally prefer pork butt.

Which is better pork shoulder or Boston butt?

Amount of Fat Since it comes from more of the working muscle of the lower shoulder, pork shoulder usually has less fat and may be chewy or tough. Pork butt, on the other hand, is well-marbled with more intramuscular fat running throughout, yielding more tender and soft meat.

How did the Boston butt acquire its name?

Apparently butts are named after the barrels pork used to be stored in around the time of the Revolutionary War; they were called butts. And the reason butts are often called Boston butts is because they were considered a New England specialty. Infrequently you see them called a shoulder butt.