What is a 350 4 bolt main block worth

Sep 14, 2008 91 Mesa, Arizona

I've got a buddy who is looking to unload a 350 4 bolt, and I'm interested in buying it. What is it worth, and what should I offer him? The block is a 3970010
casting if I remember right, date unknown as of yet. This is a long block engine, complete rotating assembly in place. Thanks guys.

Jun 29, 2009 2,682 bakersfield

depends if the rotating assembly is cast or forged
if forged it is worth a little more

May 4, 2003 4,792 Monroeville, PA

I've sold long blocks for $250 that runs. It's cheap in some area but other it brings the big bucks such as over sea and such.

Just my two cents, but if I were looking for an engine to build I'd sure start with a roller block. For a few dollars more you get a whole lot more options for the build up. For the longblock your looking at, stock bore and crank journals, 250 would be a good price.

Mar 2, 2010 899 Leduc, Alberta

No more than you'd pay for a 2 bolt block. 2 bolt blocks can be drilled for splayed 4 bolt mains that have the outside two bolts at an angle, rather than straight up and down such as factory blocks, thus, making them stronger. So any additonal price in my opinion is not worth it.

Sep 14, 2007 515 Stillwater, Oklahoma 74075

#1) What are your plans for it? If your wanting a strong N/A street motor a 2 bolt will work as well as a 4 bolt. #2) If you're wanting to make some serious power either with radical parts &/or power adders then the 4 bolt has it's advantages. Yes, a 2 bolt can be strengthened past a stock 4 bolt for extra $$. #3) Has the block been rebuilt/bored oversize? Usually 0.030 or 0.040 over is the most you want to go for a reliable engine - especially if you boost it. That said, there are plenty of 0.060 motors running out there making good power. Value depends on a lot of things. As mentioned above, a forged crank is a plus (hopefully it's still standard), if it has a forged crank it probably has X-rods. These are decent rods that just need re-sized & ARP bolts for a stout street engine up to @ 400hp. The date of the block matters; the '75 & later castings have less iron. Look for '010' & '020' under the timing cover area; this indicates a high tin & high nickle block. This is the one you want. Another big plus if it has the large (1&11/16") thick balancer - most have the 1&1/2" balancer (OK). After '78 the dipstick is on the passenger side & you'll need the pan to match. Is a carb or dizzy included? More than likely all of the other parts will need to be tossed/upgraded & don't add any value (cam, valvetrain, heads, timing chain & gears, intake).

Sep 14, 2008 91 Mesa, Arizona

Thanks for all the replies guys, I was planning on checking under the timing cover for numbers, I just got him to check to see if it was a 2 bolt or a 4 bolt today, so far so good, hoping to see 010 and 020 under that timing cover too. Ive thought long and hard about the 2 bolt to splayed 4 bolt conversion, but after getting of the phone with several machine shops, decided finding a factory 4 bolt would be my best bet for a stout street engine, especially on a budget. Most of the machine shops I contacted in Phoenix wouldnt do the job for less than $400, and now that Im in St.George Utah, theres no one in town that will even touch it. Factory 4 bolt with ARP studs for me.