Garage door too heavy to lift manually

Your garage door is the largest moving part of your home. It certainly is not a child’s toy. It is built to keep you and your entire family safe.

Table of Contents Show

The door material is irrelevant
Life Expectancy
It’s okay, I have an electric door opener!
Annual preventive maintenance
How do you manually lift a heavy garage door?
Should a garage door be heavy to lift?
Can you manually lift a garage door?

The door material is irrelevant

Regardless of the material with which your garage door was made, its thickness, its size (single or double) or if it has windows, it weighs at least 130 pounds (single door), and it can go up to 350 pounds or more (double door with windows). Contemporary doors (all glass, double door) can weigh over 400 pounds. To be able to raise and lower garage doors manually, they are equipped with a counterweight system, made of torsion or extension springs.

Life Expectancy

Over time, springs lose their effectiveness and their strength. Most garage door manufacturers recommend changing the spring system after 10,000 cycles (opening/closing). If you have a single car garage and use it four times per day, this represents a life expectancy of about seven years. If you have a double garage door, and use it regularly for two cars, the life expectancy could be reduced to about five years. However, nothing is perfect. A garage door spring can break at any time due to poor workmanship.

You can extend the life expectancy of your garage door spring system by lubricating it on a yearly basis. It’s simple: take car oil (for example 10W30) and apply it to the springs. Use a cloth to remove the excess oil. This lubrication will also reduce the noise springs can make when they contract.

One important point to note: If your system is made with extension springs (springs placed above the horizontal rail), they need to be fitted with a safety cable. If a spring breaks, the safety cable will keep it in place, preventing it from causing damage or hitting someone.

It’s okay, I have an electric door opener!

If the counterweight system is not doing its job or your garage door balance is off, your electric garage door opener can compensate. However, this is not without consequence. Without the counterweight system, a door opener can lift up to 200 pounds… while making so much noise that it will worry you.

To avoid this situation, it is important to complete a spring system check twice per year. Pull the emergency cord on your door opener and gently lift your garage door. A properly balanced garage door weighs about 10 to 15 pounds, which can easily be lifted with one hand. There could be several issues preventing your door from lifting easily. For safety reasons, don’t try to solve the problem yourself.

Annual preventive maintenance

We recommend having a maintenance done to your garage door every 12 to 18 months. Call a Garaga EXPERTS specialist in your area. They will offer a preventive maintenance program, done only by experienced and trained technicians. They can fix a heavy garage door to make it safe and easy to use!

Sure can adjust the door, but as noted by Samert11 lodes of energy in the wound up springs. I would have it done by a professional as you could be injured very badly. Not worth the risk.

AndyL

Well-known member

JoinedFeb 22, 2012Messages1,367LocationVancouver

Apr 29, 2012

No...

Once you've added weight to the door, the proper solution is to replace springs with ones properly sized to handle that extra weight... Adding additional turns onto the spring, will not balance the door - may make it better, but at the same time you're shortening the spring life, and likely the door will become lighter off the floor - and send it flying once it's about 1/2way open...

Rolling_Thunder

Well-known member

JoinedAug 8, 2008Messages468LocationPort Republic MD

Apr 29, 2012

AndyL said:
No...

Once you've added weight to the door, the proper solution is to replace springs with ones properly sized to handle that extra weight... Adding additional turns onto the spring, will not balance the door - may make it better, but at the same time you're shortening the spring life, and likely the door will become lighter off the floor - and send it flying once it's about 1/2way open...
Click to expand...

Keep

Well-known member

JoinedJan 1, 2009Messages1,390LocationOshawa, Ontario

Apr 29, 2012

I would not think a few sheets of foam would make a difference. Would have to be some damn heavy foam.

Is the spring broken? Is it dual spring setup?

pattenp

Well-known member

JoinedJun 4, 2008Messages9,925LocationVirginia - USA

Apr 29, 2012

It's hard to believe that adding foam insulation made your door go from easy to open to taking a lot of effort to open. I can't imagine that you added more than a couple of pounds to the door. Unless your springs are way under rated for the weight of the door you should have some leeway to turn the springs a little tighter.

pattenp

Well-known member

JoinedJun 4, 2008Messages9,925LocationVirginia - USA

Apr 29, 2012

Torsion springs don't need a safety cable.

DIC said:
Make sure it has a safty cable thru it before you mess with it...
Click to expand...

Sureshot

ALLIANCE MEMBER

JoinedJan 3, 2011Messages3,134LocationBridge Creek, OK

Apr 29, 2012

Just search out a utube video and make sure you have proper fitting bars. It is not that hard to do. Use some common sense.

The Lazy Destroyer

Well-known member

JoinedJun 1, 2011Messages181LocationWoodstock GA

Apr 29, 2012

I've had the same thing happen to me too. Used two boxes of the Owens Corning garage door kit... maybe 15 or so lbs in each box? Before doing the insulation the door wasn't exactly right, took some effort to lift but not much... but now it is really heavy to lift, and I need to prop it up to keep it open.

I've thought about adjusting myself but since it is an RV door (pretty tall, maybe 14 or 15 ft to the springs) I'll probably just have someone come out and adjust or replace springs. Otherwise if it was a shorter door I'd probably try it myself.

kbs2244

Well-known member

JoinedNov 11, 2006Messages13,637

Apr 29, 2012

First,
The OP said he had an extension spring door NOT a torsion spring.

They are real different.

This tutorial shows how to replace a broken spring.

http://ddmgaragedoors.com/diy-instructions/replace-garage-door-extension-springs.php

Note you get to step 86 before they talk about tension adjustment.

It is a real PITA, and one of the main reasons the industry went to torsion springs.
That may be why the local company is stalling him.
They just may not have a guy working for them that knows how to do it.

But I have to agree, something other that adding foam had to have happened.
The foam is too light to cause this.

RECox286

Well-known member

JoinedApr 11, 2012Messages1,399LocationSouth Joisey (yeah, that is part of the USA)

Apr 29, 2012

If the door panels are made out of wood, they will gain water weight over time.

This is the reason that motorized door openers have an adjustment for pulling

torque on them.

Uncle Bob

pattenp

Well-known member

JoinedJun 4, 2008Messages9,925LocationVirginia - USA

Apr 29, 2012

You need to go back and re-read the OP post. He said tension not extension. Plus extension springs are not on the top of the door.

kbs2244 said:
First,
The OP said he had an extension spring door NOT a torsion spring.

They are real different.

This tutorial shows how to replace a broken spring.

http://ddmgaragedoors.com/diy-instructions/replace-garage-door-extension-springs.php

Note you get to step 86 before they talk about tension adjustment.

It is a real PITA, and one of the main reasons the industry went to torsion springs.
That may be why the local company is stalling him.
They just may not have a guy working for them that knows how to do it.

But I have to agree, something other that adding foam had to have happened.
The foam is too light to cause this.
Click to expand...

nvhguy

Member

JoinedOct 21, 2010Messages5

Apr 30, 2012

Here's some picture of the door:

The foam is just styrofoam I bought from home depot. They are 1.5" thick and I don't think it would weight very much. But maybe I have so many pieces in the door and it adds up. However, lifting the door is much harder now with the foam. How can I adjust the spring? Should I?

larry_g

Well-known member

JoinedApr 28, 2007Messages15,097Locationoregon

Apr 30, 2012

http://commercial.wayne-dalton.com/filelib/file/sectional-manuals/General Installation manual.pdf

Above is a generic installation manual that goes through the install, tightening, and adjustment of the spring. Read and follow the instructions. If you cannot get things to work within an additional turn or so you may have to use a different spring. These springs, as said above, are designed to a specific door. The wrong spring and the door will not have a smooth action or balance at any point. As the door goes from vertical to horizontal the load on the spring decreases and the spring rate has to match this decreasing load. If you have some sense and mechanical ability you can do it. If not defer it to someone who has done it.

My doors are 2 years old and were getting a bit sluggish and heavy. I added a 1/2 turn to the spring and it was to much as I now have to hold the door going up or it goes up to fast and hits the stops. So a small adjustment should be all you need.

lg
no neat sig line

Last edited: Apr 30, 2012

pattenp

Well-known member

JoinedJun 4, 2008Messages9,925LocationVirginia - USA

Apr 30, 2012

Get two 1/2" steel rods at least 18" long to twist the spring about a quarter turn tighter. There are 2 set screws that hold the end of the spring tight to the shaft. Be sure to have the rod in the spring collar and hold on tight to the rod before loosing the set screws. The spring is under a lot of pressure. Also make sure the door is locked down so it won't raise up as you tighten the spring. You can use vise-grip pliers to hold it in place.

Check out this site for info to tighten springs: http://ddmgaragedoors.com/diy-instructions/replace-garage-door-torsion-springs.php#wind

Last edited: Apr 30, 2012

nvhguy

Member

JoinedOct 21, 2010Messages5

May 3, 2012

Thanks guys!!

I adjusted it and now the door is light to lift and stay wherever I want it. The info above is very helpful. I ended using 2 long 3/8" socket entensions to do the job. I think I rotated 2 complete turns to get the tension just right. I was a little nervous though since it's my first time and adjusting the spring on a tall ladder

larry_g

Well-known member

JoinedApr 28, 2007Messages15,097Locationoregon

May 3, 2012

Good work. Did you happen to oil the bearings, rollers, and the spring while you were there? I find that on my doors they seem to like a bit of lube every year. The spring will wear where the coils rub each other and a bit of lube goes a way in preventing wear and galling.

lg
no neat sig line

RKA

Well-known member

JoinedJun 9, 2010Messages1,744LocationNJ

May 3, 2012

nvhguy said:
Thanks guys!!
I adjusted it and now the door is light to lift and stay wherever I want it. The info above is very helpful. I ended using 2 long 3/8" socket entensions to do the job. I think I rotated 2 complete turns to get the tension just right. I was a little nervous though since it's my first time and adjusting the spring on a tall ladder
Click to expand...

Don't do that again. Get steel rod...commonly available in HD (1/2" x 36") and cut it down to the size you need (18" is pretty common is previously suggested). As you discovered, it's a pretty simple process, but improvising with a pair of socket extensions could have been a deadly decision imho. It's just not worth it.

RollUpDoor

Active member

JoinedApr 1, 2012Messages35

May 3, 2012

Yeah, for anybody attempting this in the future. Do not use tools (screwdrivers, extentions) You want to use a rod that will bend and not snap in case of failure. Also put your body to side of the spring when adding tension. So if something breaks it shoots across the room and not into your body.

Red Leader

Well-known member

JoinedMay 15, 2011Messages2,638LocationDenver, CO

May 3, 2012

I did the exact same thing - I added 1" poly iso to the back of my garage door and it made the door a little bit heavier.

I read up on how to adjust the springs, and then did it using the proper bar (not rebar). For added safety, I put on my heavy leather motorcycle jacket and full face helmet. Yep, I looked like a goofball up there doing it, but I did it. Only needed about 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn on each side. Doesn't take much.

Please be safe!

pipsters

Well-known member

JoinedSep 1, 2010Messages4,899LocationUSA

May 3, 2012

When this happened to me, I paid IIRC $95 for a guy to come out and adjust the springs. My hat is off to anyone who does it themselves! Those springs scare the crap out of me. Wish there was another way of making garage doors without the use of high energy springs.

How do you manually lift a heavy garage door?

Only use the emergency release handle when the garage door is closed. Pull the cord: Pull down on the emergency release handle. This cord should disconnect the garage door from the trolley and allow you to move the garage door manually.

Should a garage door be heavy to lift?

Ones on the heavier side can easily top at around 350 pounds if not more. Most contemporary garage doors mostly all-glass doors weigh an average of 400 pounds. So, raising the garage door requires a slightly heavier counterweight system generally employing extension or torsion springs.

Can you manually lift a garage door?

Almost all garage doors feature a manual release function to bypass the opening mechanism during power outages or in case the motor malfunctions or a garage door remote breaks. To trigger the manual release, locate the short rope hanging down from the garage door track. It usually ends with a red, T-shaped handle.